Arbutus

On a recent trip to London, my mom and I were searching for an easy, reasonable pre-theatre menu, and Soho's Arbutus ticked both boxes.

The interiors are welcoming, the staff friendly, helpful, and prompt, and the food is reflective of Anthony Demetre's Michelin etoile earned at Putney Bridge Restaurant. Demetre has worked with Will Smith since 1998, and it has been a match that, judging by our recent meal, has worked brilliantly. Demetre's menu is straightforward and comforting without being predictable or boring.

My 'vegetable soup' starter was actually a soupe au pistou, with a dollop of pesto hiding beneath carefully arranged vegetables that had to have been cooked separately from the broth because they were just barely still crisp and the broth worked as a compliment rather than a liquified version of the mushy veggie flavours (as, sadly, so many vegetable soups turn out to be).

Our main (we chose identically) was billed as 'Slow cooked lamb breast, potato puree'. But it was more. Oh, so much more. The layers of breast had been flash sauteed to crisp the meat and then layered into a terrine and braised. With the potato on the side, it was more like a deconstructed lamb brandade, with the carrots seasoned simply (and with copious amounts of butter...which was surely the secret to the potatoes as well).

Will Smith's part in all of this was equally praiseworthy. The pair's philosophy is 'value for money and quality', and Smith's wine list is evidence that they intend to stay true to it. The approximately 25 reds and 25 whites are listed in 1/3 bottle-sized carafes, and not a one struck me as unreasonably priced. Also, for a party of three or four, the 1/3 bottle makes it possible to pair every course with something different.

Unfortunately, I ate dessert too quickly to take a picture, but let that be proof in the pudding that it was something splendid. It was a creme caramel that was one part flan, one part apple crumble, and served with a slender biscotti with which to scoop up layers of caramelised apple (and, I think, a wee bit of pear) and delightfully light vanilla creme.

Oh, and the bill? 18.95 GBP per person. Granted, this was without wine, but Arbutus, in my opinion, is the best pre-theatre spot for a Drury Lane show.

Now, go eat and GO SEE THE WAR HORSE.