Sunday 16 August 2009

THE GREAT BRITISH MENU

Oliver Peyton, Prue Leith & Matthew Fort
(photo: guardian.co.uk; BBC/Optomen Television)


This post has been a long time in the making, and there are at least three sets of eyes that, I know, have been roving this URL for the promise of photos. At long last, here it is: The Great British Menu post!

As a graduate student, when one is not deep in the depths of trying to understand molecular activity of HIV cells (Chef P), of assessing and proposing improvements for teacher training methods in the UK (Chef E), or of designing nuclear submarines (Chef N), one often finds one's self either plopped down in front of a laptop or television soaking up media of a less demanding nature, or eating.

As foodies, Chef E. and myself naturally found ourselves hooked on BBC's Great British Menu series. So, when the show came to an end and the winning dishes were announced, we both insisted on trying our hand at:

Kenny Atkinson's
Salad of Aberdeen Angus beef, carrots, horseradish and Shetland Black potato crisps

Glynn Purnell's
Masala-spiced monkfish with red lentils, pickled carrots, and coconut

Nigel Haworth's
Lancashire hotpot, pickled red cabbage, baby carrots and leeks

AND
Shaun Rankin's
Treacle tart with Jersey clotted cream ice cream and raspberry coulis

Confident enough to handle one or two courses alone, but certainly not the entire menu, Chef E. and I called in food-loving reinforcements--Chefs P. and N.

The concept was simple enough, though we all knew that the mantra of the day was going to be 'interpretation'. It's amazing how the absence of implements and gadgetry tends to announce itself when one gets just the slightest bit ambitious in a university communal kitchen, and this was with the knowledge that we lacked a) A FOOD PROCESSOR b) a professional vacuum sealer c) a mandolin (Japanese, culinary, musical, or otherwise) d) a deep-fat fryer e) a hotpot...and, finally, we didn't think it wise to risk setting off the fire alarm to build an indoor smoker...'So sorry, [insert name of disgruntled Porter here], I was just finishing off my marrowbone beignets!'

Thus, not unlike neanderthals attempting Boeuf en Daube, we each tackled our respective dishes with a determined sense of optimism using the instincts and implements available.

And, we all agreed, were highly successful!

Of course there were alterations to recipes, some elements were chucked out all together, and more than one treacle tart crust met the lining of the rubbish bin, but by 8pm that evening, each Chef and invited guest had something delicious to show for much labour, love, and errrr creativity. The wine was uncorked and the four of us, along with our three invited guests, feasted quite well, indeed!

Chef N.'s Starter:

Photo courtesy Chef E.

Chef A.'s Fish Course:


Chef P.'s Main:


Chef E.'s Dessert:


As you can probably discern, no, we did not make the Shetland Black potato chips, nor the smoked marrowbone beignets; the carrots were picked and roasted instead of the suggested 24-hour maceration period; finally, we did not make our own ice cream with Jersey cream (G & D's does a very good vanilla!).

Tasting these dishes as they appeared on the show would no doubt be a splendid experience, but in this case I speak for all in saying that we did not miss any of the omitted ingredients. This round was far more about the journey than the destination, the process of improvisation and imagination despite limited tools, and the result was delicious!


3 comments:

Anonymous said...

Chef 'N', whilst wholeheartedly agreeing with the sentiments of the post, would like to point out that his carrots were indeed pickled for (almost) 24 hours! The 'interpretation' added a personal twist. nb: a cheese slicer served very well as a mandolin, although whether a tune could be extracted from it remains to be seen.. .

Annie said...

Sorry, Chef N! While yours were indeed an exact, delicious execution, I was actually referring to my own sad, little carrots, which, even in the description of the dish at top, were supposed to be 'pickled'for 24 hours.

Anonymous said...

A botched butchering of an innocent piece of beef may be a more accurate, albeit less flattering, description of the starter.

I don't recall the carrots being in want of flavour, but If they seemed sad, it was probably because they were eclipsed by the monkfish, fried to perfection.

N